Konkret i absolut jaśminowy

Wojciech Cisowski¹, *Izabela Fecka²

Summary
Jasminum officinale L. also known as Jasminum officinale subsp. grandiflorum from the family Oleaceae occurs naturally in subtropical climate and is a well-known plant used as therapeutic in the Middle East but primarily as cosmetic agent in the worldwide. Another species as Jasminum sambac L. take up the successive places. Jasmine flowers are natural source which provide valuable fragrant substances used in perfume industry. Because the jasmine essential oil is easily degradable to protect the odorous compounds from flowers are achieved such stable forms as jasmine concrete and then jasmine absolute. Aromatic ingredients of jasmine flowers are separated mostly by extraction of organic solvents. Other methods like enfleurage and supercritical CO₂ extraction are rarely used.
Numerous studies based on the GC-MS and other techniques revealed presence of 107 fragrant compounds in the absolute from J. officinale var. grandiflorum flowers, among them: benzyl acetate – 15.5%, benzyl benzoate – 11.4%, linalool – 4.5%, and important for odor (Z)-jasmone – 1.5% and δ-jasmine lactone – 0.4%, and others. In the absolute from J. sambac flowers under the same conditions were detected 123 compounds, in larger quantities were found: (2E,6E)-α-farnesene – 13.1%, benzyl alcohol – 10.7%, linalool – 8.4%, benzyl acetate – 8.0%, and a number of other ingredients. Whereas, (Z)-jasmone was absent and δ-jasmine lactone was below 0.1%. The researchers from the company Symrise performed also GC-MS analysis of the volatile constituents from superficial phase of both absolutes which were collected under reduced pressure using the cryogenic trap (VHS). The authors demonstrated that compounds detected with this method were significant for the characteristic jasmine aroma. The most scented products from jasmine flowers produce per year Egypt: 3 500.0 kg of the concrete and 1 000.0 kg of the absolute, for further positions are located other countries. Jasmine absolute is the most important component of expensive cosmetics, among others the famous perfume Chanel No. 5.

To jest tylko fragment artykułu. Aby przeczytać całość, przejdź do Czytelni medycznej.